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Cylinder block (5S-FE)

Components

Removal of engine

  1. Disconnect cable from negative terminal of battery.

    Caution

    Work must be started after approx. 20 seconds or longer from the time the ignition switch is turned to the LOCK position and the negative () terminal cable is disconnected from the battery.

  2. Remove engine hood.

  3. Remove engine hood side panels.
  4. Remove engine under covers.
  5. Drain engine coolant. (See page CO-6)
  6. Drain engine oil. (See page LU-7)
  7. Drain transaxle oil.
  8. Remove suspension upper brace.

    Remove the two bolts, two nuts and upper brace.

  9. Remove air cleaner assembly.

    1. Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor connector.
    2. Disconnect the four air cleaner cap clips.
    3. Disconnect the air cleaner hose from the throttle body, and remove the air cleaner cap and element.
    4. Remove the three bolts and air cleaner case.

  10. Disconnect accelerator cable from throttle body.

  11. Remove cruise control actuator (w/ cruise control system) and linkage.

    1. Remove the two screws and actuator cover.
    2. Remove the screw and accelerator linkage cover.
    3. Remove the three bolts and actuator.
    4. Disconnect the actuator connector.
    5. Remove the three bolts and accelerator linkage.
    6. Disconnect the cable from the accelerator linkage.

  12. Disconnect brake booster vacuum hose.

  13. Disconnect ground strap connector.

  14. Remove check connector and vacuum sensor.

  15. Remove A/C VSV.

    1. Disconnect the A/C VSV connector.
    2. Disconnect the following hoses:

      1. Air hose from ISC valve
      2. Vacuum hose from intake manifold

    3. Remove the two bolts and A/C VSV.

  16. Remove water filler.

    1. Disconnect the following hose:

      1. Water filler hose
      2. Coolant reservoir hose
    2. Remove the two bolts and water filler.

  17. Remove charcoal canister.

    1. Disconnect the three vacuum hoses.
    2. Remove the two bolts and charcoal canister.

  18. Remove engine relay box, and disconnect engine wire.

    1. Remove the two bolts and relay box. Disconnect the luggage compartment striker cable.

    2. Remove the upper and lower covers from the relay box.

    3. Disconnect the positive (+) cable and two connectors of the engine wire from the relay box.

  19. Remove ignition coil and igniter.

    1. Disconnect the ignition coil connector.
    2. Disconnect the igniter connector.
    3. Disconnect the high-tension cord.
    4. Remove the two bolts, the ignition coil and igniter assembly. Disconnect the noise filter.

  20. Disconnect engine wire from luggage compartment.

    1. Disconnect the following connectors:

      1. Two engine ECU connectors
      2. Starter relay connector
      3. Engine compartment wire connector

    2. Pull out the engine wire from the luggage compartment.

  21. Disconnect starter cable.

  22. Disconnect radiator hose from water inlet.

  23. Disconnect fuel inlet hose.

    Caution

    Catch leaking fuel in a container.

  24. Disconnect fuel return hose.

    Caution

    Catch leaking fuel in a container.

  25. Disconnect radiator hose from water outlet housing.

  26. Disconnect heater hoses.

  27. Disconnect transaxle control cable(s) from transaxle.

  28. (A/T) Disconnect transaxle oil cooler hoses.

  29. Remove front exhaust pipe.

    1. Remove the two bolts holding the front exhaust pipe to the tailpipe stopper bracket.
    2. Remove the two bolts holding the front exhaust pipe to the tailpipe. Remove the gasket.

    3. Remove the two bolts and support bracket.

    4. Using a 14 mm deep socket wrench, remove the three nuts, exhaust pipe and gasket.

  30. Remove drive shaft. (See pages SA-39 to 41)

  31. Remove idler pulley bracket and A/C compressor without disconnecting hoses.

    1. Disconnect the idler pulley bolt and adjusting bolt, and remove the drive belt.

    2. Disconnect the A/C compressor connector.

    3. Remove the bolt and the wire clamp of the A/C compressor.
    4. Remove the three bolts and idler pulley bracket.

    5. Remove the two bolts, and disconnect the A/C compressor from the engine.

      Hint

      Put aside the compressor, and suspend it to the radiator support with a string.

  32. Disconnect speedometer cable.

  33. Remove rear engine mounting insulator.

    1. Remove the through bolt holding the mounting insulator to the mounting bracket.
    2. Remove the three bolts and mounting insulator.

  34. Remove front engine mounting insulator.

    1. Remove the through bolt and nut holding the mounting insulator to the mounting bracket.
    2. Remove the four bolts and mounting insulator.

  35. Remove front engine mounting bracket, clutch release cylinder (M/T) and transaxle control cable (A/T).

    1. (M/T) Remove the bolt and nut holding the clutch release cylinder to the transaxle.

    2. Remove the two bolts and mounting bracket and control cable bracket (A/T).

    3. (M/T) Disconnect the clutch release cylinder without disconnecting the tube.

  36. Remove rear engine mounting bracket.

    Remove the three bolts and mounting bracket.

  37. Remove RH engine mounting stay.

    Remove the bolt, nut and mounting stay.

  38. (M/T) Remove LH engine mounting stay.

    Remove the two bolts, speedometer cable clamp and mounting stay.

  39. Remove lateral control rod (M/T) and air cleaner case bracket.

    (M/T) Remove the five bolts, the control rod and case bracket. Disconnect the charcoal canister tube and ground strap (from the transaxle).

    (A/T) Remove the four bolts and case bracket. Disconnect the charcoal canister tube and ground strap (from the transaxle).

  40. Remove engine and transaxle assembly from vehicle.

    1. Attach the engine chain hoist to the engine hangers.

    2. Remove the three (M/T) or four (A/T) bolts holding the LH mounting insulator to the transaxle.

    3. Remove the through bolt, nut and LH mounting insulator.

    4. Remove the three (M/T), two (A/T) bolts and LH mounting bracket.

    5. Remove the two nuts holding the RH mounting insulator to the mounting bracket.

    6. Remove the through bolt and RH mounting insulator.

    7. Lift the engine out of the vehicle slowly and carefully.

      Hint

      Make sure the engine is clear of all wiring, hoses and cables.

    8. Place the engine and transaxle assembly onto the stand.

  41. Remove starter. (See Starter › Removal of starter)

  42. Separate engine and transaxle.

    • M/T (See pages MT-5 and 6)
    • A/T (See page AT-41)

Preparation for disassembly

  1. Remove clutch cover and disc.
  2. Remove flywheel.
  3. Remove rear end plate.

    Remove the bolt and end plate.

  4. Install engine to engine stand for disassembly.

  5. Remove alternator. (See Alternator)
  6. Remove alternator bracket.

    Remove the four bolts and mounting bracket.

  7. Remove RH engine mounting bracket.

    Remove the four bolts and mounting bracket.

  8. Remove timing belt and pulleys. (See Timing belt (5S-FE) › Removal of timing belt)

  9. Remove cylinder head. (See Cylinder head (5S-FE) › Removal of cylinder head)
  10. Remove water pump. (See page CO-11)
  11. Remove oil pan and oil pump. (See pages LU-11 and 12)
  12. Remove oil filter. (See page LU-7)
  13. Remove oil cooler. (See page LU-24)

Disassembly of cylinder block

(See Cylinder block (5S-FE))

  1. Remove rear oil seal retainer.

    Remove the six bolts, retainer and gasket.

  2. Check connecting rod thrust clearance.

    Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while moving the connecting rod back and forth.

    Standard thrust clearance: 0.160 – 0.312 mm (0.0063 – 0.0123 in.)

    Maximum thrust clearance: 0.35 mm (0.0138 in.)

    If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod assembly. If necessary, replace the crankshaft.

  3. Remove connecting rod caps and check oil clearance.

    1. Using a punch or numbering stamp, place the matchmarks on the connecting rod and cap to ensure correct reassembly.

    2. Using SST, remove the connecting rod cap nuts.

      SST 09011-38121

    3. Using a plastic-faced hammer, lightly tap the connecting rod bolts and lift off the connecting rod cap.

      Hint

      Keep the lower bearing inserted with the connecting cap.

    4. Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of hose to protect the crankshaft from damage.

    5. Clean crank pin and bearing.

    6. Check the crank pin and bearing for pitting and scratches.

      If the crank pin or bearing is damaged, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.

    7. Lay a strip of Plastigage across the crank pin.

    8. Install the connecting rod cap. (See Assembly of cylinder block, step 6)

      Torque:

      • 1st – 250 kg-cm (18 ft-lb, 25 N·m)
      • 2nd – Turn 90°

      Notice

      Do not turn the crankshaft.

    9. Remove the connecting rod cap. (See procedures (b) and © above)

    10. Measure the Plastigage at its widest point.

      Standard oil clearance:

      • STD – 0.024 – 0.055 mm (0.0009 – 0.0022 in.)
      • U/S 0.25 – 0.023 – 0.069 mm (0.0009 – 0.0027 in.)

      Maximum oil clearance: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)

      If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.

      Hint

      If using a standard bearing, replace it with one having the same number marked on the connecting rod cap. There are three sizes of standard bearings, marked "1", "2" and "3" accordingly.

      Standard sized bearing center wall thickness:

      • Mark "1" – 1.484 – 1.488 mm (0.0584 – 0.0586 in.)
      • Mark "2" – 1.488 – 1.492 mm (0.0586 – 0.0587 in.)
      • Mark "3" – 1.492 – 1.496 mm (0.0587 – 0.0589 in.)

    11. Completely remove the Plastigage.

  4. Remove piston and connecting rod assemblies.

    1. Using a ridge reamer, remove all the carbon from the top of the cylinder.

    2. Cover the connecting rod bolts. (See Disassembly of cylinder block)

    3. Push the piston, connecting rod assembly and upper bearing through the top of the cylinder block.

      Hint

      • Keep the bearings, connecting rod and cap together.
      • Arrange the piston and connecting rod assemblies in correct order.

  5. Check crankshaft thrust clearance.

    Using a dial indicator, measure the thrust clearance while prying the crankshaft back and forth with a screwdriver.

    Standard thrust clearance: 0.020 – 0.220 mm (0.0008 – 0.0087 in.)

    Maximum thrust clearance: 0.30 mm (0.0118 in.)

    If the thrust clearance is greater than maximum, replace the thrust washers as a set.

    Thrust washer thickness: 2.440 – 2.490 mm (0.0961 – 0.0980 in.)

  6. Remove main bearing caps and check oil clearance.

    1. Remove the main bearing cap bolts.

    2. Using the removed main bearing cap bolts, pry the main bearing cap back and forth, and remove the main bearing caps, lower bearings and lower thrust washers (No.3 main bearing cap only).

      Hint

      • Keep the lower bearing and main bearing cap together.
      • Arrange the main bearing caps and lower thrust washers in correct order.

    3. Lift out the crankshaft.

      Hint

      Keep the upper bearing and upper thrust washers together with the cylinder block.

    4. Clean each main journal and bearing.

    5. Check each main journal and bearing for pitting and scratches.

      If the journal or bearing is damaged, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.

    6. Place the crankshaft on the cylinder block.

    7. Lay a strip of Plastigage across each journal.

    8. Install the main bearing caps. (See Assembly of cylinder block, step 4)

      Torque: 600 kg-cm (43 ft-lb, 59 N·m)

      Notice

      Do not turn the crankshaft.

    9. Remove the main bearing caps. (See procedures (a) and (b) above)

    10. Measure the Plastigage at its widest point.

      Standard clearance:

      • No.3
        • STD – 0.025 – 0.044 mm (0.0010 – 0.0017 in.)
        • U/S 0.25 – 0.027 – 0.067 mm (0.0011 – 0.0026 in.)
      • Others
        • STD – 0.015 – 0.034 mm (0.0006 – 0.0013 in.)
        • U/S 0.25 – 0.019 – 0.059 mm (0.0007 – 0.0023 in.)

      Maximum clearance: 0.08 mm (0.0031 in.)

      Hint

      If replacing the cylinder block subassembly, the bearing standard clearance will be:

      • No.3 – 0.027 – 0.054 mm (0.0011 – 0.0021 in.)
      • Others – 0.017 – 0.044 mm (0.0007 – 0.0017 in.)

      If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the bearings. If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.

      Hint

      If using a standard bearing, replace it with one having the same number. If the number of the bearing cannot be determined, select the correct bearing by adding together the numbers imprinted on the cylinder block and crankshaft, then select the bearing with the same number as the total. There are five sizes of standard bearings, marked "1," "2," "3," "4" and "5" accordingly.

      Cylinder block Crankshaft Bearing
      1 0 1
      1 1 2
      1 2 3
      2 0 1
      2 1 2
      2 2 3
      3 0 1
      3 1 2
      3 2 3

      Example: Cylinder block "2" + Crankshaft "1" = Bearing "3"

      (Reference)

      Cylinder block main journal bore diameter:

      • Mark "1" – 59.020 – 59.026 mm (2.3236 – 2.3239 in.)
      • Mark "2" – 59.026 – 59.032 mm (2.3239 – 2.3241 in.)
      • Mark "3" – 59.032 – 59.038 mm (2.3241 – 2.3243 in.)

      Crankshaft journal diameter:

      • Mark "0" – 54.998 – 55.003 mm (2.1653 – 2.1655 in.)
      • Mark "1" – 54.993 – 54.998 mm (2.1651 – 2.1653 in.)
      • Mark "2" – 54.988 – 54.993 mm (2.1649 – 2.1651 in.)

      Standard sized bearing center wall thickness:

      • No.3
        • Mark "1" – 1.992 – 1.995 mm (0.0784 – 0.0785 in.)
        • Mark "2" – 1.995 – 1.998 mm (0.0785 – 0.0787 in.)
        • Mark "3" – 1.998 – 2.001 mm (0.0787 – 0.0788 in.)
        • Mark "4" – 2.001 – 2.004 mm (0.0788 – 0.0789 in.)
        • Mark "5" – 2.004 – 2.007 mm (0.0789 – 0.0790 in.)
      • Others
        • Mark "1" – 1.997 – 2.000 mm (0.0786 – 0.0787 in.)
        • Mark "2" – 2.000 – 2.003 mm (0.0787 – 0.0789 in.)
        • Mark "3" – 2.003 – 2.006 mm (0.0789 – 0.0790 in.)
        • Mark "4" – 2.006 – 2.009 mm (0.0790 – 0.0791 in.)
        • Mark "5" – 2.009 – 2.012 mm (0.0791 – 0.0792 in.)
    11. Completely remove the Plastigage.

  7. Remove crankshaft.

    1. Lift out the crankshaft.
    2. Remove the upper bearings and upper thrust washers from the cylinder block.

    Hint

    Arrange the main bearing caps, bearings and thrust washers in correct order.

Inspection of cylinder block

  1. Clean cylinder block.

    1. Remove gasket material

      Using a gasket scraper, remove all the gasket material from the top surface of the cylinder block.

    2. Clean cylinder block

      Using a soft brush and solvent, thoroughly clean the cylinder block.

  2. Inspect top surface of cylinder block for flatness.

    Using a precision straight edge and feeler gauge, measure the surfaces contacting the cylinder head gasket for warpage.

    Maximum warpage: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)

    If warpage is greater than maximum, replace the cylinder block.

  3. Inspect cylinder for vertical scratches.

    Visually check the cylinder for vertical scratches.

    If deep scratches are present, rebore all the four cylinders. If necessary, replace the cylinder block.

  4. Inspect cylinder bore diameter.

    Hint

    There are three sizes of the standard cylinder bore diameter, marked "1", "2" and "3" accordingly. The mark is stamped on the top of the cylinder block.

    Using a cylinder gauge, measure the cylinder bore diameter at positions A, B and C in the thrust axial directions.

    Standard diameter:

    • STD
      • Mark "1" – 87.000 – 87.010 mm (3.4252 – 3.4256 in.)
      • Mark "2" – 87.010 – 87.020 mm (3.4256 – 3.4260 in.)
      • Mark "3" – 87.020 – 87.030 mm (3.4260 – 3.4264 in.)

    Maximum diameter:

    • STD – 87.23 mm (3.4342 in.)
    • O/S 0.50 – 87.73 mm (3.4350 in.)

    If the diameter is greater than maximum, rebore all the four cylinders. If necessary, replace the cylinder block.

  5. Remove cylinder ridge.

    If the wear is less than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.), using a ridge reamer, grind the top of the cylinder.

Disassembly of piston and connecting rod assemblies

  1. Check fit between piston and piston pin.

    Try to move the piston back and forth on the piston pin.

    If any movement is felt, replace the piston and pin as a set.

  2. Remove piston rings.

    1. Using a piston ring expander, remove the two compression rings.

    2. Remove the two side rails and oil ring expander by hand.

    Hint

    Arrange the rings in correct order only.

  3. Disconnect connecting rod from piston.

    1. Using a small screwdriver, pry out the two snap rings.

    2. Gradually heat the piston to 80 – 90°C (176 – 194°F).

    3. Using plastic-faced hammer and brass bar, lightly tap out the piston pin and remove the connecting rod.

    Hint

    • The piston and pin are a matched set.
    • Arrange the pistons, pins, rings, connecting rods and bearings in correct order.

Inspection of piston and connecting rod assemblies

  1. Clean piston.

    1. Using a gasket scraper, remove the carbon from the piston top.

    2. Using a groove cleaner or broken ring, clean the piston ring grooves.

    3. Using solvent and a brush, thoroughly clean the piston.

      Notice

      Do not use a wire brush.

  2. Inspect piston.

    1. Inspect piston oil clearance

      Hint

      There are three sizes of the standard piston diameter, marked "1", "2" and "3" accordingly. The mark is stamped on the piston top.

      1. Using a micrometer, measure the piston diameter at right angles to the piston pin center line, 23.5 mm (0.925 in.) from the piston head.

        Piston diameter:

        • STD
          • Mark "1" – 86.911 – 86.921 mm (3.4217 – 3.4221 in.)
          • Mark "2" – 86.921 – 86.931 mm (3.4221 – 3.4225 in.)
          • Mark "3" – 86.931 – 86.941 mm (3.4225 – 3.4229 in.)
        • O/S 0.50 – 87.411 – 87.441 mm (3.4414 – 3.4426 in.)

      2. Measure the cylinder bore diameter in the thrust directions. (See Inspection of cylinder block, step 4)

      3. Subtract the piston diameter measurement from the cylinder bore diameter measurement.

        Standard oil clearance: 0.079 – 0.099 mm (0.0031 – 0.0039 in.)

        Maximum oil clearance: 0.119 mm (0.0047 in.)

        If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace all the four pistons and rebore all the four cylinders. If necessary, replace the cylinder block.

        Hint (Use new cylinder block)

        Use a piston with the same number mark as the cylinder bore diameter marked on the cylinder block.

    2. Inspect piston ring groove clearance

      Using a feeler gauge, measure the clearance between new piston ring and the wall of the piston ring groove.

      Ring groove clearance: 0.030 – 0.070 mm (0.0012 – 0.0028 in.)

      If the clearance is greater than maximum, replace the piston.

    3. Inspect piston ring end gap

      1. Insert the piston ring into the cylinder bore.
      2. Using a piston, push the piston ring a little beyond the bottom of the ring travel, 115 mm (4.53 in.) from the top of the cylinder block.

      3. Using a feeler gauge, measure the end gap.

        Standard end gap:

        • No.1 – 0.270 – 0.500 mm (0.0106 – 0.0197 in.)
        • No.2 – 0.350 – 0.600 mm (0.0138 – 0.0234 in.)
        • Oil (Side rail) – 0.200 – 0.550 mm (0.0079 – 0.0217 in.)

        Maximum end gap:

        • No.1 – 1.10 mm (0.0433 in.)
        • No.2 – 1.20 mm (0.0472 in.)
        • Oil (Side rail) – 1.15 mm (0.0453 in.)

        If the end gap is greater than maximum, replace the piston ring. If the end gap is greater than maximum, even with a new piston ring, rebore all the four cylinders or replace the cylinder block.

    4. Inspect piston pin fit

      At 60°C (140°F), you should be able to push the piston pin into the piston pin hole with your thumb.

  3. Inspect connecting rod.

    1. Inspect connecting rod alignment

      Using rod aligner and feeler gauge, check the connecting rod alignment.

      • Check for bending.

      Maximum bending: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.) per 100 mm (3.94 in.)

      If bend is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod assembly.

      • Check for twist.

      Maximum twist: 0.15 mm (0.0059 in.) per 100 mm (3.94 in.)

      If twist is greater than maximum, replace the connecting rod assembly.

    2. Inspect piston pin oil clearance

      1. Using a caliper gauge, measure the inside diameter of the connecting rod bushing.

        Bushing inside diameter: 22.005 – 22.017 mm (0.8663 – 0.8668 in.)

      2. Using a micrometer, measure the piston pin diameter.

        Piston pin diameter: 21.997 – 22.009 mm (0.8660 – 0.8665 in.)

      3. Subtract the piston pin diameter measurement from the bushing inside diameter measurement.

        Standard oil clearance: 0.005 – 0.011 mm (0.0002 – 0.0004 in.)

        Maximum oil clearance: 0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)

        If the oil clearance is greater than maximum, replace the bushing. If necessary, replace the piston and piston pin as a set.

    3. If necessary, replace connecting rod bushing

      1. Using SST and a press, press out the bushing.

        SST 09222-30010

      2. Align the oil holes of a new bushing and the connecting rod.

      3. Using SST and a press, press in the bushing.

        SST 09222-30010

      4. Using a pin hole grinder, hone the bushing to obtain the standard specified clearance (see step B above) between the bushing and piston pin.

      5. Check the piston pin fit at normal room temperature.

        Coat the piston pin with engine oil, and push it into the connecting rod with your thumb.

    4. Inspect connecting rod bolts

      1. Install the cap nut to the connecting rod bolt. Check that the cap nut can be turned easily by hand to the end of the thread.

      2. If the cap nut cannot be turned easily, measure the outside diameter of the connecting rod bolt.

        Standard diameter: 7.860 – 8.000 mm (0.3094 – 0.3150 in.)

        Minimum diameter: 7.60 mm (0.2992 in.)

        Hint

        If the location of this area cannot be judged by visual inspection, measure the outer diameter at the location shown in the illustration.

        If the ouside diameter is less than minimum, replace the connecting rod bolt and cap nut as a set.

Boring of cylinders

Hint

  • Bore all the four cylinders for the oversized piston outside diameter.
  • Replace all the piston rings with ones to match the oversized pistons.
  1. Keep oversized pistons.

    Oversized piston diameter:

    • O/S 0.50 – 87.411 – 87.441 mm (3.4414 – 3.4426 in.)
  2. Calculate amount to bore cylinders.

    1. Using a micrometer, measure the piston diameter at right angles to the piston pin center line, 23.5 mm (0.925 in.) from the piston head.

    2. Calculate the amount each cylinder is to be rebored as follows:

      Size to be rebored = P + C – H

      • P = Piston diameter
      • C = Piston clearance – 0.079 – 0.099 mm (0.0031 – 0.0039 in.)
      • H = Allowance for honing – 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.) or less
  3. Bore and hone cylinders to calculated dimensions.

    Maximum honing: 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)

    Notice

    Excess honing will destroy the finished roundness.

Inspection and repair of crankshaft

  1. Inspect crankshaft for runout.

    1. Place the crankshaft on V-blocks.
    2. Using a dial indicator, measure the circle runout at the center journal.

      Maximum circle runout: 0.06 mm (0.0024 in.)

      If the circle runout is greater than maximum, replace the crankshaft.

  2. Inspect main journals and crank pins.

    1. Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of each main journal and crank pin.

      Main journal diameter:

      • STD size – 54.988 – 55.003 mm (2.1653 – 2.1655 in.)
      • U/S 0.25 – 54.745 – 54.755 mm (2.1553 – 2.1557 in.)

      Crank pin diameter:

      • STD size – 51.985 – 52.000 mm (2.0466 – 2.0472 in.)
      • U/S 0.25 – 51.745 – 51.755 mm (2.0372 – 2.0376 in.)

      If the diameter is not as specified, check the oil clearance (See Disassembly of cylinder block). If necessary, grind or replace the crankshaft.

    2. Check each main journal and crank pin for taper and out-of-round as shown.

      Maximum taper and out-of-round: 0.02 mm (0.0008 in.)

      If the taper and out-of-round is greater than maximum, replace the crankshaft.

  3. If necessary, grind and hone main journals and/or crank pins.

    Grind and hone the main journals and/or crank pins to the finished undersized diameter (See procedure step 2).

    Install new main journal and/or crank pin undersized bearings.

Replacement of crankshaft oil seals

(See Cylinder block (3S-GTE) › Replacement of crankshaft oil seals)

Assembly of piston and connecting rod assemblies

  1. Assemble piston and connecting rod.

    1. Install a new snap ring on one side of the piston pin hole.

    2. Gradually heat the piston to 80 – 90°C (176 – 194°F).

    3. Coat the piston pin with engine oil.

    4. Align the front marks of the piston and connecting rod, and push in the piston pin with your thumb.

    5. Install a new snap ring on the other side of the piston pin hole.

  2. Install piston rings.

    1. Install the oil ring expander and two side rails by hand.

    2. Using a piston ring expander, install the two compression rings with the code mark facing upward.

      Code mark:

      • No.1 – 1N or T
      • No.2 – 2N or 2T

    3. Position the piston rings so that the ring ends are as shown.

      Notice

      Do not align the ring ends.

  3. Install bearings.

    1. Align the bearing claw with the groove of the connecting rod or connecting cap.
    2. Install the bearings in the connecting rod and connecting rod cap.

Assembly of cylinder block

(See Cylinder block (5S-FE))

Hint

  • Thoroughly clean all parts to be assembled.
  • Before installing the parts, apply new engine oil to all sliding and rotating surfaces.
  • Replace all gaskets, O-rings and oil seals with new parts.
  1. Install main bearings.

    Hint

    • Main bearings come in widths of 19.2 mm (0.756 in.) and 22.9 mm (0.902 in.). Install the 22.9 mm (0.902 in.) bearings in the No.3 cylinder block journal position with the main bearing cap. Install the 19.2 mm (0.756 in.) bearings in the other positions.
    • Upper bearings have an oil groove and oil holes; lower bearings do not.

    1. Align the bearing claw with the claw groove of the cylinder block, and push in the five upper bearings.

    2. Align the bearing claw with the claw groove of the main bearing cap, and push in the five lower bearings.

      Hint

      A number is marked on each main bearing cap to indicate the installation position.

  2. Install upper thrust washers.

    Install the two thrust washers under the No.3 journal position of the cylinder block with the oil grooves facing outward.

  3. Place crankshaft on cylinder block.

  4. Install main bearing caps and lower thrust washers.

    1. Install the two thrust washers on the No.3 bearing cap with the grooves facing outward.

    2. Install the five main bearing caps in their proper locations.

      Hint

      Each bearing cap has a number and front mark.

    3. Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the main bearing caps.

    4. Install and uniformly tighten the ten bolts of the main bearing caps in several passes in the sequence shown.

      Torque: 600 kg-cm (43 ft-lb, 59 N·m)

    5. Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.

    6. Check the crankshaft thrust clearance. (See Disassembly of cylinder block, step 5)
  5. Install piston and connecting rod assemblies.

    1. Cover the connecting rod bolts with a short piece of hose to protect the crankshaft from damage.

    2. Using a piston ring compressor, push the correctly numbered piston and connecting rod assemblies into each cylinder with the front mark of the piston facing forward.

  6. Install connecting rod caps.

    1. Place connecting rod cap on connecting rod

      1. Match the numbered connecting rod cap with the connecting rod.
      2. Install the connecting rod cap with the front mark facing forward.

    2. Install connecting rod cap nuts

      Hint

      • The cap nuts are tightened in two progressive steps (steps (b) and (d)).
      • If any the connecting rod bolt is broken or deformed, replace it.
      1. Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the cap nuts.
      2. Using SST, install and alternately tighten the cap nuts in several passes.

        SST 09011-38121

        Torque: 250 kg-cm (18 ft-lb, 25 N·m)

        If any one of the cap nuts does not meet the torque specification, replace the connecting rod bolt and cap nut as a set.

      3. Mark the front of the cap nut with the paint.

      4. Retighten the cap nuts 90° in the numerical order shown.

      5. Check that the painted mark is now at a 90° angle to the front.
      6. Check that the crankshaft turns smoothly.
      7. Check the connecting rod thrust clearance. (See Disassembly of cylinder block, step 2)

  7. Install rear oil seal retainer.

    Install a new gasket and the retainer with the six bolts.

    Torque: 95 kg-cm (82 in.-lb, 9.3 N·m)

Post assembly

  1. Install oil cooler. (See page LU-25)
  2. Install oil filter. (See page LU-7)
  3. Install oil pump and oil pan. (See pages LU-15 and 16)
  4. Install water pump. (See pages CO-12 and 13)
  5. Install cylinder head. (See Cylinder head (5S-FE) › Installation of cylinder head)
  6. Install pulleys and timing belt. (See Timing belt (5S-FE) › Installation of timing belt)
  7. Install RH engine mounting bracket.

    Install the mounting bracket with the four bolts.

    Torque: 620 kg-cm (45 ft-lb, 61 N·m)

  8. Install alternator bracket.

    Install the alternator bracket with the five bolts.

    Torque: 440 kg-cm (32 ft-lb, 43 N·m)

  9. Install alternator. (See Alternator › Assembly of alternator)

  10. Remove engine stand.
  11. Install rear end plate.

    Torque: 95 kg-cm (82 in.-lb, 9.3 N·m)

  12. (M/T) Install flywheel.

    1. Apply adhesive to two or three threads of the mount bolt end.

      Adhesive: Part No. 08833-00070, THREE BOND 1324 or equivalent

    2. Install the flywheel on the crankshaft.

    3. Install and uniformly tighten the mount bolts in several passes in the sequence shown.

      Torque: 900 kg-cm (65 ft-lb, 88 N·m)

  13. (A/T) Install drive plate. (See procedure step 12)

    Torque: 850 kg-cm (61 ft-lb, 83 N·m)

  14. (M/T) Install clutch disc and cover. (See page CL-10)

Installation of engine

  1. Assemble engine and transaxle.

    • M/T (See pages MT-5 and 6)
    • A/T (See page AT-41)
  2. Install starter. (See Starter › Installation of starter)

  3. Install engine and transaxle assembly in vehicle.

    1. Attach the engine chain hoist to the engine hangers.
    2. Slowly lower the engine into the engine compartment.

      Tilt the transaxle downward, lower the engine and clear the LH body mounting.

    3. Keep the engine level, and align RH and LH mountings with the body mountings.

    4. Attach the RH mounting insulator to the body, and temporarily install the through bolt.

    5. Attach the RH mounting insulator to the mounting bracket, and temporarily install the two nuts.

    6. (M/T) Install the LH mounting bracket to the transaxle case with the three bolts.

      Torque: 530 kg-cm (38 ft-lb, 52 N·m)

    7. (A/T) Install the LH mounting bracket to the transaxle case with the three bolts. Do not tighten the bolt (A).

      Torque: 530 kg-cm (38 ft-lb, 52 N·m)

    8. Attach the LH mounting insulator to the body, and temporarily install the through bolt.

    9. Attach the LH mounting insulator to the mounting bracket, and install the three (M/T) or four (A/T) bolts.

      Torque:

      • A – 650 kg-cm (47 ft-lb, 63 N·m)
      • B – 740 kg-cm (54 ft-lb, 73 N·m)
      • C – 530 kg-cm (38 ft-lb, 52 N·m) A/T only

    10. Tighten the through bolt holding the LH mounting insulator to the body.

      Torque: 800 kg-cm (58 ft-lb, 78 N·m)

    11. Tighten the two nuts holding the RH mounting insulator to the mounting bracket.

      Torque: 530 kg-cm (38 ft-lb, 52 N·m)

    12. Tighten the through bolt holding the RH mounting insulator to the body.

      Torque: 800 kg-cm (58 ft-lb, 78 N·m)

    13. Remove the engine chain hoist from the engine.

  4. Install RH engine mounting stay.

    Install the mounting stay with the two bolts and nut.

    Torque: 740 kg-cm (54 ft-lb, 73 N·m)

  5. Install lateral control rod (M/T) and air cleaner case bracket.

    (M/T) Install the control rod, case bracket and charcoal canister tube with the five bolts, and connect the ground strap (from transaxle). Do not the tighten the bolt (A).

    Torque: 360 kg-cm (26 ft-lb, 35 N·m)

    (A/T) Install the case bracket and charcoal canister tube with the four bolts, and connect the ground strap (from transaxle). Do not the tighten the bolt (A).

    Torque: 360 kg-cm (26 ft-lb, 35 N·m)

  6. (M/T) Install LH engine mounting stay.

    1. Install the mounting stay and speedometer cable clamp with the two bolts.

      Torque:

      • Transaxle side – 250 kg-cm (18 ft-lb, 25 N·m)
      • Mounting insulator side – 740 kg-cm (54 ft-lb, 73 N·m)
    2. Tighten the bolt (A) of step 6.

      Torque: 380 kg-cm (27 ft-lb, 37 N·m)

  7. Install clutch release cylinder (M/T), transaxle control bracket (A/T) and front engine mounting bracket.

    1. (M/T) Place the release cylinder on the transaxle.

    2. (M/T) Temporarily install the bolt and nut holding the release cylinder to the transaxle.

    3. Install the control cable bracket (A/T) and mounting bracket with the two bolts.

      Torque: 790 kg-cm (57 ft-lb, 77 N·m)

    4. (M/T) Tighten the bolt and nut holding the clutch release cylinder to the tranaxle.

      Torque: 120 kg-cm (9 ft-lb, 12 N·m)

  8. Install rear engine mounting bracket.

    Install the mounting bracket with the three bolts.

    Torque: 790 kg-cm (57 ft-lb, 77 N·m)

  9. Install front engine mounting insulator.

    1. Install the mounting insulator to the body with the four bolts.

      Torque: 740 kg-cm (54 ft-lb, 73 N·m)

    2. Temporarily install the through bolt and nut holding the mounting insulator to the mounting bracket.

  10. Install rear engine mounting insulator.

    1. Temporarily install the mounting bracket to the body with the three bolts.

    2. Temporarily install the through bolt holding the mounting insulator to the mounting bracket.

    3. Tighten the three bolts holding the mounting bracket to the body.

      Torque: 650 kg-cm (47 ft-lb, 64 N·m)

    4. Tighten the through bolt holding the mounting insulator to the mounting bracket.

      Torque: 800 kg-cm (58 ft-lb, 79 N·m)

  11. Tighten front engine mounting through bolt.

    Torque: 800 kg-cm (58 ft-lb, 79 N·m)

  12. Connect speedometer cable.

  13. Install A/C compressor and idler pulley bracket.

    1. Temporarily install the compressor with the two bolts.

    2. Install the idler pulley and bracket with the three bolts.

      Torque:

      • A – 275 kg-cm (20 ft-lb, 27 N·m)
      • B – 375 kg-cm (27 ft-lb, 37 N·m)
      • C – 250 kg-cm (18 ft-lb, 25 N·m)

    3. Install the wire clamp of the A/C compressor with the bolt.

    4. Tighten the two bolts of the lower side holding the A/C compressor to the cylinder block.

      Torque: 280 kg-cm (20 ft-lb, 27 N·m)

    5. Connect the A/C compressor connector.

    6. Install the drive belt with the idler pulley bolt and adjusting bolt.

  14. Install drive shafts. (See pages SA-49 to 51)

  15. Install front exhaust pipe.

    1. Place a new gasket on the front of the front exhaust pipe.
    2. Using a 14 mm deep socket wrench, install the three new nuts holding the exhaust pipe to the catalytic converter.

      Torque: 630 kg-cm (46 ft-lb, 62 N·m)

    3. Install the support bracket with the two bolts.

      Torque: 210 kg-cm (15 ft-lb, 21 N·m)

    4. Place a new gasket on the rear of the front exhaust pipe.

    5. Temporarily install the two bolts holding the front exhaust pipe to the tailpipe.

    6. Install the two bolts holding the stopper bracket of the front exhaust pipe to the tailpipe stopper bracket.

      Torque: 190 kg-cm (190 ft-lb, 19 N·m)

    7. Tighten the two bolts holding the front exhaust pipe to the tailpipe.

      Torque: 440 kg-cm (32 ft-lb, 43 N·m)

  16. (A/T) Connect transaxle oil cooler hoses.

  17. Connect transaxle control cable(s).

  18. Connect fuel inlet hose to fuel filter.

    Torque: 300 kg-cm (22 ft-lb, 29 N·m)

  19. Connect fuel return hose.

  20. Connect radiator hose to water outlet.
  21. Connect heater hoses.

  22. Connect radiator hose to water inlet.

  23. Connect starter cable.

  24. Connect engine wire to luggage compartment.

    1. Push in the engine wire through the luggage compartment.
    2. Connect the following connectors.

      1. Two engine ECU connectors
      2. Starter relay connector
      3. Engine compartment wire connector

  25. Install ignition coil and igniter.

    1. Install the ignition coil and igniter with the two bolts. Connect the noise filter.
    2. Connect the high-tension cord.
    3. Connect the igniter connector.

  26. Connect engine wire, and install engine relay box.

    1. Connect the two connectors and positive (+) cable of the engine wire to the relay box.

    2. Install the upper and lower covers to the relay box.

    3. Install the relay box with the two bolts. Install the luggage compartment striker cable.

  27. Install charcoal canister.

    1. Install the charcoal canister with the two bolts.
    2. Connect the three hoses.

  28. Install water filler.

    1. Install the water filler with the two bolts.
    2. Connect the following hoses:

      1. Water filler hose
      2. Coolant reservoir hose

  29. Install A/C VSV.

    1. Install the A/C VSV with the bolt.

    2. Connect the following hoses:

      1. Air hose from ISC valve
      2. Vacuum hose from intake manifold
    3. Connect the VSV connector.

  30. Install check connector and vacuum sensor.

    Install the check connector and vacuum sensor with the bolt.

  31. Connect brake booster vacuum hose.

  32. Connect ground strap connector.

  33. Install cruise control actuator (w/ cruise control system) and accelerator linkage.

    1. Connect the cable to the accelerator linkage.
    2. Install the accelerator linkage with the three bolts.
    3. Connect the actuator connector.
    4. Install the actuator with the three bolts.
    5. Install the accelerator linkage cover with the screw.
    6. Install the actuator cover with the two screws.

  34. Install accelerator cable, and adjust it.

  35. Install air cleaner assembly.

    1. Install the air cleaner case with the three bolts.
    2. Install the air cleaner element.
    3. Connect the air cleaner hose to the throttle body.
    4. Install the air cleaner cap.
    5. Connect the intake air temperature sensor connector.

  36. Install suspension upper brace.

    Install the suspension upper brace with the two bolts and two nuts.

    Torque:

    • Bolt – 740 kg-cm (54 ft-lb, 73 N·m)
    • Nut – 650 kg-cm (47 ft-lb, 64 N·m)

  37. Connect cable to negative terminal of battery.

  38. Fill with engine coolant. (See page CO-7)

    Capacity (w/ Heater): 13.0 liters (13.7 US qts, 11.4 Imp. qts)

  39. Fill with engine oil. (See page LU-8)

    Capacity:

    • Drain and refill
      • w/ Oil filter change – 4.2 liters (4.4 US qts, 3.7 Imp. qts)
      • w/o Oil filter change – 3.8 liters (4.0 US qts, 3.3 Imp. qts)
    • Dry fill – 4.6 liters (4.9 US qts, 4.0 Imp. qts)
  40. Start engine and check for leaks.

  41. Perform engine adjustment.

    1. Adjust the alternator drive belt. (See On-vehicle inspection)

      Drive belt tension:

      • New belt – 120 ± 20 lb
      • Used belt – 104 ± 20 lb
    2. Adjust the A/C drive belt.

      Drive belt tension:

      • New belt – 160 ± 20 lb
      • Used belt – 100 ± 20 lb
    3. Adjust the ignition timing. (See Distributor (5S-FE) › Installation of distributor, steps 9–13)

      Ignition timing: 10° BTDC @ idle (w/ Terminals TE1 and E1 connected)

  42. Install engine under covers.

  43. Install engine hood.
  44. Install engine compartment side panels.
  45. Perform road test.

    Check for abnormal noise, shock, slippage, correct shift points and smooth operation.

  46. Recheck engine coolant and oil levels.